How to Change the Front Brake Discs and Pads on a Ford Escape

To change the front brake discs and pads on a Ford Escape, you will need: a torque wrench, a ratchet, a 19mm socket, an 18mm socket, a 7mm socket, pliers, and a flathead screwdriver. Start by removing the front wheel, unscrewing the bolts with a 19mm ratchet. Keep the vehicle raised with a jack stand or, if possible, a lift. If the wheel is stuck, leave one nut on, tap it lightly to loosen, then remove the nut and wheel. Use pliers to loosen the spring holding the brake caliper to the bracket, and with a screwdriver, remove the spring. On the back of the caliper, there are bolts covered by caps; remove the caps with a flathead screwdriver, unscrew the bolts using a ratchet and a 7mm socket; when the bolts start to come out, you can finish removing them by hand due to limited space. Insert a flathead screwdriver between the disc and caliper, slightly compressing the piston, then lift and remove the caliper, hanging it to the side with a hook. Inside the caliper, remove the brake pad by pulling it outward, using the flathead screwdriver to pry on all sides of the pad attached to the disc. On the back of the pad bracket, there are two bolts; remove them with a ratchet and an 18mm Allen wrench, and also remove the bracket. To remove the brake disc, there are small plastic clips that you can remove with small pliers (you can also break them). Now, if there is no corrosion, the disc should come off easily, but if there is corrosion, you can hit it with a hammer (on the part where the hub bolts are, do not hit the bolts), spray lubricant in all the holes, rotating the disc, let it sit for a few minutes, then tap again and remove the disc. Before installing the new disc, clean the hub with a wire brush, removing some rust (the reason the disc was stuck), also clean the pad bracket with a wire brush, trying a smaller brush or a blade, spray brake cleaner on the bracket and wipe it with a cloth, also clean the pins holding the brake caliper using sandpaper, brake cleaner, and a cloth. Now insert the brake disc backward, spray brake cleaner on both sides, insert a wheel nut to prevent the disc from turning, take the caliper bracket and screw its bolts in by hand first, then use a torque wrench and an 18mm socket, tightening to 129 lb-ft. Take the caliper, flip it over, take the old pad, and using a brake caliper compressor, compress the pad towards the caliper to push the piston, which in turn pushes brake fluid into the lines, the master cylinder, and finally into the reservoir. Now take some brake pad grease, spread it on the "ears" of the pad with the clip (the one that goes into the piston), then slide it into the piston and spread grease on the other pad (do not apply it to the friction material), sliding it into place against the disc; now take the brake caliper, slide it into position, grease the brake caliper pins, insert them into the holes, and screw them in first by hand, then with a torque wrench and a 7mm socket, tightening to 18 lb-ft and replace the caps. Now you can insert the spring that holds the caliper to the bracket so it doesn’t move, starting with the top part and then securing the bottom part, finally remove the nut securing the disc, reassemble the wheel, and screw in the nuts first by hand and then with a torque wrench and a 19mm socket, tightening to 100 lb-ft, tightening them in a cross pattern to ensure the wheel is evenly secured. As a final step, make sure to pump the brake pedal; there will be air space between the caliper piston and the brake pad, so do this slowly to compress the calipers, and when the pedal starts to feel firm, that’s a good sign; now open the hood, locate the brake fluid reservoir, and top it off if necessary; if the level is fine, the job is complete.